I promise to post soon.
The other Peace Corps Volunteer in my town says I’m not allowed to call his house AmericaLand. From now on, it will be called The Palace. He’s got a “Muzungu Throne” so it makes sense. Also, my favorite diner in the whole wide world is called The Palace. It’s across from Marist College in Poughkeepsie, New York. You should go. Like, now. And order the french toast, because it’s the best you will ever taste. For real.
Apologies to anyone hurt by my blog post entitled, “Of Miniskirts and Men,” and my use of the term AmericaLand.
Addendum to “A Correction”:
I have a mzungu throne as well, so using the existence of a toilet as the justification for characterizing said house as “The Palace” demonstrates a bit of intellectual dishonesty. I would like this inconvenient fact to be hidden from you, the reader, but sweet irony has not allowed it. From now on, in the way that a normal person might do, I will simply refer to said house as “Jake’s house”.
[edited by the resident of above-mentioned house, who asserts that one should not leave themselves logged in on a computer owned by a subject of their blog posts]
Have I told you about the book club that my friend Katy and I have started? One Sunday morning back in training, we decided to go for a short walk near our training site. Then we thought it would be fun to see where various paths went, trusting our senses of direction to get us back home in one piece. Fast forward two hours, and we got back home! It was a delightful walk, full of good conversation, endorphins and stuff. We found a great 5k path that we told everyone else about. We were pretty proud of ourselves. But that’s neither here nor there.
One of the things we talked about on our walk was how after graduating college it was hard to find people that were interested in having conversation that revolved around more than just what happened on TV or in the club the previous night. We didn’t want that to happen here in Uganda too (I guess without the TV part…). We recognized that there’s a connection between the things we would be doing here, and academic thought (theory and practice) and we wanted to engage in praxis, connecting theory with practice. And thus, Stay Smart in Africa (the name of our book club) was born!
So, Katy aptly suggested that our first book be Pedagogy of the Oppressed, by Paulo Freire . The first chapter made me think about a bunch of things, so I’ve decided to share some of my thoughts with you!
One paragraph that resonated with me was about false generosity:
“Any attempt to “soften” the power of the oppressor in deference to the weakness of the oppressed almost always manifests itself in the form of false generosity; indeed, the attempt never goes beyond this. In order to have the continued opportunity to express their “generosity” the oppressors must perpetuate injustice as well. An unjust social order is the permanent fount of this “generosity,” which is nourished by death, despair, and poverty”
International aid is a business. NGO’s and non-profits need injustice, inequality and poverty to keep running. The way it’s carried out now simply keeps the cycle of poverty and injustice going. By handing out money with very few real strings attacked and thus requiring little or no accountability, we allow corruption to continue. By employing foreigners to do a job, then leaving with no thought as to how a project will be sustainable once the outsider is gone, we create dependence on foreign aid, therefore allowing progress to stagnate.
One of my biggest problems with non-profits is that the drive to get more money can be more important than getting anything done. So once you have funding, it’s not all that important how much work you do, as long as you’re good at BS and can make what little work you did do, look good. Obviously there are thousands of people doing good work, but I think this is in spite of a system that doesn’t necessitate it.
As Peace Corps volunteers, it’s important to remember that “the oppressors can’t lead the revolution.” We’re not going to change the world, but above all, like doctors, we must first do no harm. I really don’t want to this mentality of false generosity.
Another paragraph that had particular resonance with me said,
“Critical and liberating dialogue, which presupposes action, must be carried on with the oppressed at whatever the stage of their struggle for liberation. The content of that dialogue can and should vary in accordance with historical conditions and the level at which the oppressed perceive reality. But to substitute monologue, slogans, and communiqués for dialogue is to attempt to liberate the oppressed with the instruments of domestication. Attempting to liberate the oppressed without their reflective participation in the act of liberation is to treat them as objects which must be saved from a burning building; it is to lead them into the populist pitfall and transform them into masses which can be manipulated”
As a peace corps volunteer, it’s easy to start thinking that I have to come into a community/organization and start fixing things, that whatever was happening up to my arrival was backward and insufficient, and that I should take it upon myself to change what I see as problems. By going in and just doing things myself, I am basically giving a monologue; producing the things that I think are important with little regard for what anyone else thinks. By “dumbing things down” and/or feeding my ideas to the people around me, I’m just supporting a culture of non-thought.
Freire’s comments on trust earlier in the chapter:
“The man/woman who proclaims devotion to the cause of liberation yet is unable to enter into communion with the people whom he or she continues to regard as totally ignorant is grievously self-deceived. The convert who approaches the people but feels alarm at each step they take, each doubt they express, and each suggestion they offer, and attempts to impose his “status” remains nostalgic towards his origins”
I’m constantly reminded of my “status.” Being an American, people defer to me for information, and take what I say as the end-all-be-all truth. For example, my old widowed neighbor got a spider bite and immediately came to my door for guidance, even though I have absolutely no medical expertise. I didn’t have the internet to look anything up, I didn’t have any medicine that would help, but she also didn’t have any money to go to the doctor. All I could say was, “tindikumanya,” I don’t know. I gave her a band-aid and some antibiotic ointment, but that was just to stop her from panicking, more than anything else, because I’m pretty sure that wouldn’t help if there was poison running through her veins (I don’t know what happened to her bite because she moved away the next day).
So how do I not do that? How do I get out of a “those people” mentality? I think the first step is realizing that I have it. Checking myself every time I get together with confidants and talk about frustrations related to my job. I need to “own my privilege,” as a friend back home used to say all the time. Beyond that, I’m not sure. When I figure it out, I’ll let you know. Until then, I’ll try my best to listen more and talk less, because I know I have a lot to learn.
So. I’ve got a P.O. Box in my town now, which is great because the Peace Corps office is 11 hours away and a serious hassel to get to, especially since I’m only allowed in Kampala every 3 months. Now the ball is in your court! Send me a letter!
Be advised:
1) Padded envelopes work best. I’ve had two lovely ladies send me letters in regular envelopes and they’ve been successful, but I have a PCV (Peace Corps Volunteer) friend in Liberia who never got the things i sent in regular envelopes. So. It’s up to you!
2) Post cards NEVER get here. Somewhere along the line, some postal worker will be like, “OMG it’s America!” and the postcard will end up on the wall at the post office instead of mine.
3) Number the letters. That way, I’ll know for sure if I’m missing one that you’ve sent.
I got this P.O. bos a while ago (2 weeks seems like light years away). My site mate Michelle and I decided to get a P.O. Box together to save money etc. So we go to the post office. It’s after 6pm, so we didn’t actually except anyone to be there as it should have closed 2 hours before but there was one guy still there! He’s super friendly, and we find out his name is Gaston. I mention that there’s a character in Beauty and The Beast named Gaston, but I catch myself and try to explain what children’s movies are and what Disney is and then I just let it die, because
a) What are the chances he has a TV
b) what are the chances he has a DVD player
c) what are the chanes he’ll find any Disney movie in town, let alone Beauty and The Beast
d) It’s Disney and Beauty and The Beast! Do I really want to introduce more impressionable minds to those racist, classist, capitalist, sexist, stereotypical ideas that are planted in your brain every time you watch a Disney movie?? No.
But this did make me examine the fact that finding some piece of America/American cultuer is quite comforting to me. It’s easy to go about daily activities forgetting my previous life “Omu America” (in America). I just sort of turn that part of my brain off. Comparing that life to this one and thinking about all the people I left behind can easily become overwhelming. Instead, I compartmentalize. Deal with the tasks at hand, and put everything else away for a bit.
I guess it’s a coping mechanism, one that’s served me well since the first time I used it when I entered daycare at 3 years old. *Yes, staying at home with Mommy was super fun, but now we’ve got this whole new world of other 3 year olds. Plus. The Water Table (I was completely enamored with the water table. Spinny Things! Lots of bright plastic toys, wet with a mixture of spit, urine, whatever the sticky stuff on kids hands is, and tap water. Bliss.)*
But things like meeting a real live person named Gaston can take me back to AmericaLand in an instant. I supose the trick is to acknowledge it and move on. So. I asked Gaston about the big box of letters near the door marked “lost mail.” I look in it, and there are personal letters from as far back as 2009 that would never reach their destination. I picked a few out and asked Gaston why they were in the box, and he pointed out all the issues with how the letters were addressed. So. What’s the moral of this long convoluted story? Make sure you write the address properly, otherwise your letters will end up in Post Office Limbo.
Side note: Before I left America, the US Postal Service was in the new alot because thousands of post offices are closing and almost 40,000 postal workers have lost their jobs. My dear friend Fat Fat showed me this video a while back that I think more people should see. I also shared it with a high school life skills class I substituted for “Omu America” when we were supposed to be learning about being a postal worker. The jaded 16 year olds seemed to tolerate my digression well enough, so I’m sure you can too.
So yeah. support the US Postal System and send Letters to all your friends!
I went back to the training site for another week of training, and then I swore in! Fully pumped for the next two years, ( especially because of my fellow PCV Emily’s super amazing and great speech (click here if you want to read it, which I highly recommend)), I slept for almost the entire 11 hour bus ride to Rukungiri Town! I guarantee it’s because I was SO. excited.
Since July 27th, I’ve been trying to make my completely empty house a home. This, for me is quite difficult! I’m not very good at making decisions or creating things, so I take forever to get anything done. The only way to counter this is to have a deadline. In which case, I will procrastinate until the very last minute, then get something finished in the exact amount of time I have left. Sadly, the only real deadline I have here to finish decorating/furnishing my house is 2014, when I have to leave the country. Obviously, that’s not going to work.
Progress that I’ve made so far:
…and that’s basically it. I go to work for a few hours every day, but I haven’t actually done anything there. I just hang out and talk to my counterpart Isaac, and get laughed at by my coworkers (not in a bad way, just in a “look at the silly Muzungu” kind of way). Just functioning at a basic level- eating, sleeping, and bathing seems to take WAY more time here. I make a To Do list almost every day and only get through a few things on the list by the time I’m going to sleep. I’m sure this will get better as I get more accustomed to my new Ugandan Life. Until then, I’ll enjoy the pace of things. I have very few time constraints, and very few concrete responsibilities. Yay!
So. I haven’t told you about the month I spent in Kabwohe for Language Immersion, but I’d rather skip that and tell you about my super cool and amazing house! I and finishing up the last day of my “future site visit,” where the Peace Corps sends me to look at my living/job situation and figure out what I’ll need to furnish my house and start making relationships with my colleagues.
My job seems pretty cool, I’ll be working for RUGADA, which stands for Rukungiri (the name of the town I’m in) Gender And Development Association as a reproductive health promoter. Ask me more specific questions about my job, and I probably wouldn’t be able to give you answers. But. Yeah, it’s going to be good.
And my house!!!!!!! My sanctuary. I get to live alone for the first time ever. It’s pretty exciting. As most of you know, I don’t have any artistic sensibilities, so I need decorating tips. Look at my fancy gallery! Also, I’ve got 3G internet here. Awesome.
So!
I’ve been in africa for exactly one month. Cool right!? I think so. For the first two weeks, I was staying at this organic farming school called Kulika. It was 1.5 hours outside of Kampala (the capital of Uganda) pretty much in the middle of nowhere. They grow everything we ate, and the farm was super sustainble. As in, they collected methane to power the stoves etc. At Kulika, our days were quite structured. We’d have breakfast from 7-8 (I would arrive at breakfat around 7:50 even though I woke up at 6 everyday. What was I doing in the tiny room I shared with my good friend Sarah? I couldn’t tell you.) then start class around 8:15 every day.
A dinner bell signifying Breakfast/AM tea time/Lunch/PM tea time/Dinner punctuated lectures on the general health scene in Uganda, Safety and Security, and Peace Corps goals/policies. Yes, we have tea time. Don’t forget, Uganda was a former British colony. I think we all looked forward to the tasty treats at tea time more than the actual food we were served. For the record, Matooke is not your friend (more on this at a later date).
As you can imagine, this got quite old after a while and we were all ready to gouge our eyes out by the end of each day. After classes we usually play soccer or slack line or play board games.
Andddd yeah. That was basically my life.
Now I’m in the southwestern part of Uganda. The weather is super nice. It’s between 75 and 85 degrees everyday with maybe a few minutes of rain. Here, we have language class from 8-5 every day. I think my brain is fully saturated with language at this point, but there is still a week left of language immersion. Problematic.
Also, I went to a wedding. We spent 2.5 hours listening to speeches made in Runyankore. It was not the funnest thing ever, but now I know what a wedding in Uganda is like!
…aka the Atlantic Ocean.
I just found out my region! I’ll be speaking Runyakole and I’ll be in the SouthWest, which is apparently the most beautiful part of the country. Yay me!
I’ll be posted there with 11 other trainees doing intense language stuff for the next 4 weeks.
I got a phone today! Also an Internet Stick! Call me. Like, For realz.
+256 0781 455927
I’ll make an actual post when I have more than 20 minutes on the internet!